Sunday, June 7, 2009
:: Gone Global ::
Fast Life Food
Is this part of our cultural identity as Americans?
Can something mass produced, processed, prepared, packaged, marketed, and shipped really be a unique and defining characteristic of our culture? Does it have soul?
Today, convenience foods have reached unprecedented heights globally, with fast food chains popping up in developing countries across the world.
In his book, Fast Food Nation, investigative journalist Eric Schlosser delves into the world of fast food, from its ethical failings to its negative social and environmental impacts. What he discovers is that patrons of fast food institutions often do not pay the real price for their meal. Behind the made-to-order meal is a complex system of economical reasoning and calculations, much more convoluted than one would like to consider while eating.
To prevent consumers from asking the question, "where did this come from?," fast food companies jump the gun to give out answers to the question, "what's in this?" to which they can provide ambiguous and yet somehow satisfactory answers. Using, for example, words like "fresh" and "high quality," and emphasizing the taste and crunchiness of the vegetables, exclaiming that the grapes are "hand twisted off the bunch" and the apple slices are "spritzed" with chemicals. (http://cep.mcdonalds.com/qualityfood/)
By real costs, perhaps Schlosser is referring to the unfair compensation of restaurant employees, whose income is lowest in the country (second only to migrant farm workers,) and whose corporate disposability leave them without benefits or a steady job. Or perhaps he is referring to the costs of corporate agriculture.
These giant agricultural operations push for monoculture and bioengineering of crops, which produce water-efficient or higher yield produce, but rapidly degrade soil and decrease the diversity of species within a certain genus. This last is especially hazardous because a crop’s resilience to disease varies from specie to specie, and diversity is key to preventing the total devastation of an entire harvest in the instance of an outbreak. There is also recent evidence that crop biodiversity reduces dissolved nitrogen levels in water sheds, which leads to the development of algae and watershed “dead zones.” (sciencedaily.com) Biopiracy of indigenous crop varieties is practiced by corporate monopolies with the financial ability to obtain patents on certain types of crops.
This, in addition to the international trade agreements and government subsidies they receive, makes the agri-business industry a foreboding adversary of independent farms. In Washington, lobbyists are much more likely to push legislation that favors these corporations, putting small-scale operations at a disadvantage, especially in developing countries. (coc.org)
Gone Local...
TO START
Early Summer Salad
Marinated homemade fromage blanc, local baby greens,
toasted hazelnuts, shaved spring onions and beets
WÖLFFER ESTATE “BIG APPLE”
FIRST COURSE
Black Sea Bass Crudo
Local green tomato, tomato water
PAUMANOK “FESTIVAL” CHARDONNAY
SECOND COURSE
Braised Duck leg
Plum-stuffed gnocchi, kohlrabi, turnips and carrots
BEDELL “FIRST CRUSH”
DESSERT
Vanilla Poached Apricots and Cherries
Housemade ricotta, Mexican cocoa
MARTHA CLARA, “CIELE”